On the world wine scene, Canada is still a relatively small producer, but the industry is growing, and worth travelling to explore. Today, there are roughly , largely clustered in four provinces: Ontario, B.C., Nova Scotia and Quebec.
In the West, there’s the Okanagan Valley, with its mystical mountains, glacier lakes and compelling Chardonnays. On the opposite coast, the sparkling wines and crisp whites of the Annapolis Valley taste like the seaside — and pair well with lobster rolls. AndÌýsoutheast of Montreal, the Eastern Townships offer wineries, cideries and farm restaurants that charm, even in the coldest winter.
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Savour B.C.’s wines and mountain scenery:ÌýThe Okanagan Valley has a flair for the dramatic. There are soaring mountains, carved by ancient drifting glaciers and blanketed in Douglas firs. There are icy blue lakes where locals dive and dip, and vineyards that flourish up the hills between the trees.
“The beauty and serenity of the northern Okanagan speaks for itself, from the sunshine glinting off the lake to the mountainous backdrops,†says Kurtis Kolt, a Vancouver-based sommelier.Ìý
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Come for the wine tasting rooms, and stay a while for the nature all around you. At , you can enjoy chef Patrick Gayler’s farm-driven plates on the grand patio, perched above Okanagan Lake. Watch the mountains turn from green to pink over a glass of Oculus 2020, Canada’s first 100-point red wine.
Across the lake, ’s modern tasting rooms and Home Block restaurant offer west-facing views of the sunset, when the sky turns pink, red and purple over the dormant mountain volcanoes. Lucky drinkers can spot the winery’s Highland cows, which help tend to the vines and soil.
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While summer days are long and languid, in winter the landscape will be draped in snow. “It’s an extreme region. It’s really wine-growing on the edge,†says Taylor Whelan, senior winemaker at Mission Hill. “But all good wine is made on the edge.â€Ìý
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AtÌýLightfoot & Wolfville, you can sample wines that pair perfectly withÌýNova Scotia’s ocean bounty.
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Taste Canada’s oldest wine region:ÌýThere’s an unwritten rule for making wine in Canada’s ocean playground: they must go well with seafood. Thank goodness, that comes naturally. In the Annapolis Valley, an hour’s drive north of Halifax, all vineyards are within 20 kilometres of the ocean. Vines curl and stretch from the ancient seabed. Rising tides kiss grapes with sea spray. This region is where Canada’s very first vineyard was planted.
“We have the highest tidal range in the world,†Alana Steele, sommelier at restaurant in Halifax, says of the unique geography.ÌýTwice a day, about 160 billion tons of seawater flow in and out of the Bay of Fundy. These tidal changes circulate air currents, “making the climate perfect for Champagne-style sparkling, mineral-driven white wines and peppy red wines.†Cool, crisp Tidal Bay is the province’s signature appellation.Ìý
So do these wines work well with Nova Scotia’s ocean bounty? Find out for yourself. At winery, in the town of Wolfville, wash down the bubbly with oysters or wood-fired pizzas topped with little neck clams.
“I love to stop by (Domaine de) and sit under a pergola overlooking the vines, with snacks and Tidal Bay wines,†Steele continues. “Or visit the seaside for some of the best Chardonnay in the world. Bring a change of clothes so you can tube the Gaspereau River with canned piquette from Wrap it all up by eating chef Dave Smart’s farmhouse tasting menu at .â€
Everyone you meet on the way will be friendly, warm and unpretentious. “That’s what we’re known for,†says Steele. “But our wines might blow your mind.â€
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Domaine du Ridge is one of the vineyards onÌýBrome-Missisquoi’s 160-kilometre wine route.
Slow-travel through Quebec’s wine route:ÌýDriveÌýsoutheast from Montreal to the Eastern Townships, and you’ll find that the pace slows to a crawl. That’s a good thing, as this quiet countryside deserves a leisurely experience.
Follow , Brome-Missisquoi’s 160-kilometre trail linking 25 vineyards, including Ìýand . The latter is the oldest active vineyard in Quebec (and serves apple juice for wee ones, too). Plot your own way along the wine route, or follow one of the official suggested itineraries, which include paths you can bike, too.Ìý
Sipping wine isn’t the only thing to do around here. Make a pit stop in the town of Dunham to explore the microbreweries, farmers’ market and antique shops. Or unwind after wine with a visit to Bromont’s , where a private lake and thermal circuit await.
When the harvest season is over, winemakers in this region nurse vines through cold, wild winters and coax them into producing elegant, brooding Bordeaux blends, flinty aromatic whites or savoury oranges with a strong sense of place. So embrace the cold as the Quebecois do, and take your ²¹±è°ùè²õ-²õ°ì¾± to a local winery after trips down the area’s popular slopes.
Kate Dingwall is a Toronto-based wine and travel writer and a working sommelier.
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